Pools4DIY.com

Installing a fibreglass pool is achievable for a competent DIYer.

Measure the exact depth at each end when the shell is on the ground so that you can form the slope correctly.......you'll need to dig the hole allowing an extra 200mm all round to allow the back-fill.....don't dig the hole too big, as you'll have to pay more to remove the extra dirt plus you'll need to buy more sand to back-fill the hole which is doubly uneconomical

I strongly advise digging the hole only after the pool has been delivered in case of any unforseen delays/problems, and also, with the pool on site you can visualize better the shape of the hole.... e.g. it has rounded corners which means far less dirt needs to be removed from the corners., and you don't need to dig to full depth under the steps and roman-end, etc... 
Here's a quick overview of the project....
Dig the hole with the sloping bottom aprox 100mm (75mm is ideal) deeper than the pool itself (plus the thickness of the Coping Stone)then form the slope with a layer of sand Compacted down with a whacker plate (this way if any stones fall under the pool when lowering it into the hole they will be forced into the sand as opposed to a concrete base which would form a lump)....I formed the slope on mine using two scaffold poles running along each side of the bottom of the sloping hole and then used a length of timber to scrape along the poles to form a smooth slope ..
The 10m pool holds aprox 45000litres = 45 Tons, so you'll have over 45tons of dirt to remove...
The tighter you dig the hole, the less sand you'll have to backfill....you'll probably need at least 20tons of sand for the base and the sides back-fill, anything surplus can be used in the paving mortar.....
Its vitally important that the backfill sand  is totally compacted by flushing water into the backfilled sand ...failure to do this will mean the tiny airgaps in between the sand grains will eventually cause further settling of the sand and may cause the sides to distort if the pressure of the water forces against the hollows being formed in the backfill....this is why sand should be used and not the dirt you have dug out of the hole...sand will compact really easily with water but the dirt will just turn to mud rather than compact....as a rule , any dirt which is disturbed should be removed and replaced with  soaked sand back-fill.

It's easier to fit the skimmer , light and return while its on the ground and before placing in the hole.You'll need a 4" angle grinder and a jig-saw with fine blade for this,  I would fit the  Skimmer and Light on the Deep-end wall and the return jet(s) at the other end on this size of pool, but this is down to personal preference.... so a trench needs to run from the middle of the deep end wall 450mm-600mm deep to the pump, and the pipes from the returns could sit in the back-fill. The pool shell can be lowered onto the base using a mini-digger.
When the pool is in the hole and sat on the sloped base and you're happy the rim is level, back-fill to aproximately 450mm all the way round with sand to prevent the pool sliding down the slope, then fill the pool halfway up the first step.Then start to soak the back-fill.
Continue to back-fill as you fill the pool, bringing the backfill up at the same level the water is rising and checking that the sides have a continuous flowing line.....too much back-fill will push the sides inwards, so having the water-level slightly higher than the back-fill is more desirable than having the back-fill higher than the water-line.
Time for back-filling will be dependent on your water pressure...I back-filled and filled my smaller (7m) pool to about three-quarters full in a 14 hour day. Backfill to 150mm below the Coping rim so you can pour a concrete ring 150mm thick around about three feet wide for the copings and  pool paving to sit on--this will prevent the coping pressing down on the coping-rim in the event of any further settling of the sand-backfill
The Pump and Filter come in a plastic housing with a lid. Common Bye-laws govern that no electricity should be within 3 metres of the pool, so the box needs to be a minimum of 3 metres away. ..you need to confirm this with your own local-authority. I supply 3x 6metre lengths of pipe plus a bunch of bends and fittings to plumb from the skimmer to the Filter and back to the pool. You need an underground armoured cable run from your Electrical Distribution Board to the PumpHousing, and a trench from the skimmer to the Pump-housing . You'll also need a 12V cable to run from the Pump-housing to the 12V light. (The 12v Transformer is inside the supplied DB which resides in the Pump Housing)
 To cut down on heat-losses it would be preferable to get the Pump-housing as close to the deep end as is allowed(3m)....so have a think about where you want to position it.....the Pump and filter can be removed from the Housing and positioned in a shed or closer to your heat-source  etc. if you prefer.
The Pump-housing has an Inlet and Outlet plus a Drain for back-washing the filter...this drain needs to be fed away to a soakaway or drain...the water will have chlorine in it so is not suitable for watering lawn / plants etc.
The plumbing is all solvent-weld plastic...really easy, but be sure not to twist the welded joint, just push it on and allow it to set, within seconds.

I offer personal and friendly after-sales advice.